Head chef Paul Li, left, watches second chef William Zhou, right, put the topping on the Baked BBQ Pork Buns in the kitchen at Tim Ho Wan in Katy. Steamed Rice Roll with BBQ pork at Tim Ho Wan Karen Warren/Staff photographer Show More Show Less 2 of11 Use Next and Previous buttons to navigate Surfing over the mellow Asian pop music in the big contemporary room is the sound of fun. It is very much a communal ritual, chatty and convivial and very active. One of the joys of a dim sum feast is the chopsticking and bamboo-steamer passing and teapot-pouring that animates each table.
Since the dim sum items are made to order, rather than sent around the dining room on carts, they arrive extremely hot, so a degree of caution is in order when diving in.Īnd I do mean dive. Once you’ve penciled your choices on the order form that awaits at each table, the dishes tend to arrive pell-mell, singly or in bursts, depending on kitchen rhythms. Whether you’ll receive them at the same time is another matter.
The three dishes - meatballs, noodles and greens - seem made for each other. Maybe you’ll need some blanched gai lan, the deep-green Chinese broccoli, for contrast, divided neatly into stalky and leafy sections, then showered with brittle bits of fried garlic. Plop a meatball on a tangle of super-skinny pan-fried rice vermicelli, tinted ochre in Singapore style, and the fun continues. They may not look glamorous, but they are not to be missed. So can the slightly sweet and savory gravy buoying a fleet of tender little beef meatballs wrapped in wrinkly sheaths of bean curd. A few drops of the tart-and-hot bath in which the juicy Hot and Spicy Wontons repose can come in especially handy.
I’ve learned to mix and match dishes so that a borrowed spoonful of the sauce from one can light up another. On my first visit last fall, when the restaurant was new, I lamented that there was no vinegar with which to make my preferred dim sum sauce mix, and I joked that next time I’d bring my own in a tiny flask. There is soy sauce and red chile paste on each table, but you won’t really need them. Like many items here, the shrimp and chive dumpling has a purity that needs no adornment. GUIDE: Houston's Top 100 restaurants according to Alison Cook Even a simple steamed crystal dumpling of shrimp and Chinese chive, bright emerald beneath the translucent wrapper, exerts a delicate tug between sticky and smooth, land and sea.
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